Go BottomGears grind going in gear L245TP
 | Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee 
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2002-10-19 43993
Hi, I am new to this forum. Just bought an L245TP with 160 hours on it...... Yeah, I raised an eye browe at the hours too but it was original down to the paint on the clutch & brake pedals as well as the seat cover. All works well, only problem is that it grinds going into gear the first time you shift into gear. Once in gear or if you start it in gear with the clutch in, it shifts fine. But take it out of gear and let the clutch out and she grinds going back in gear. Got any ideas???? I was thinking maybe the clutch plates are stuck together or dragging. Will slipping the clutch against the tractor in gear be of any worth to perhaps bernish or remove any rust/corrosion from the plate? Clutch free play looks to be about an inch or there abouts. Haven't checked the release bearing gap with the feeler guage yet. Also looking for ideas to get the rear weight heavier without fluid or fairly easy ways to remove and install the FEL. The tractor is extremely front & top heavy with the FEL on. I am VERY hestitant to take it on much of a slope like that. Already got my first out of control trip down the slope out of the way. Ruined a good pair of drawers doing it too! :) Only way I was able to stop the tractor was to drop the FEL bucket. Got the ROPS/Seat belt kit on order for Kubota. (They have a certificate you can down load from the Kubota web site and buy a ROPS/Seatbelt kit for $148) Also have changed all the fluids & filters as well as hydraulic screen. Great forum you guys have here?
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 | Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 3034 Northern AL
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2002-10-19 43996
As I am not too familar with this tractor I can only make suggestions.
A lot of tractor are not synco in any gear. Try double clutching the to get the gears spinning at the right speed.
I would add weight to the rear if you are feeling tippy. The balast make a big difference. The other thing you need to consider is turning the wheels to the outer position to provide a wider stance.
If you are going up or down hills place the tractor in 4x it will make a big difference in control whether going slow or trying to stop. As the weight is transfered to the front the slowing or stopping power is all in the front. ....
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 | jeff r
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 428 burton. michigan 
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2002-10-20 44026
You should not have to double clutch any gear tractor to get into gear and stop a grinding noise. If you hear a grinding noise while shiting gears it means that the clutch is not fully dis-engaging the engine's rotary motion. Check to make sure that clutch is FULLY dis-engaging power to the gear box. I'm betting it isn't for one reason or another. ....
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 | ThomasG
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-10-21 44035
I don't know if the TX is synchromesh. My Ford has synchronized gears but the range shifts aren't synchronized. It sounds like some of the grinding happens when the tractor is stopped. That's pretty normal for non-synchronized gears. Sometimes I 'tickle' the clutch when shifting ranges (and engaging PTO and 4wd for that matter). A little clutch may realign the sliding gears so they can engage easier.
Shifting non-synchronized gears when the tractor is moving can be a problem. On my Ford, the ranges are not supposed to be shifted when the tractor is in motion. The relative narrow ratios between gears on many tractors make shifting non-synchronized TX's on the fly reasonable, but they can grind. Double clutching is the traditional solution shifting old TX's on the fly but it shouldn't be needed on a tractor TX. Anyway it would be good to know if you're dealing with synchromesh gears or not. In any event, it's good not to try and jam things into gear or engagement. The clutch-pedal free-play for my Ford is ¾" and I doubt that 1" of play would make the clutch drag unless it was warped.
A heavy 3ph implement such as a box scraper makes a good rear counter-weight.
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| jeff r
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 428 burton. michigan
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2002-10-23 44113
Tom G,
My brother has the same tractor as you, a Ford 1710 with a Ford loader and syncro mesh? We just replaced the clutch ( bad previous owner) and had the tractor split in 45 minutes. With a clutch replaced, we have no gear grinding whatsoever. You are right the range gears are not synchroed, but fully depressing the clutch when the tractor is stopped and using the column shifter there is absolutely NO gear grinding nor should there be on any gear tractor. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-10-24 44136
If the 1710 has a shifter on the steering column, it has the synchromesh TX, which was an option. The standard TX has both the gear and range shifters on the TX top plate. The standard TX also has a TX driven PTO while the option gives live PTO and a 2-stage clutch. Those clutches are a bit tricky to replace I hear. Somebody must know what they are doing to do a split in 45-minutes and clutch replacement probably without alignment difficulties. You're also lucky that you have a shop with the equipment to do a split.
I guess it goes without saying that people were shifting both cars and equipment without grinding long before constant mesh TX's came along. However, I believe that going from a forward gear to reverse will grind if there’s any forward motion to a tractor. However, that doesn’t happen with my 1710 because reverse is synchronized as well. Of course, shifting to reverse isn’t a good idea if there’s any appreciable forward motion. However, the synchronized reverse means that I don’t have to come to absolute complete stops for loader work.
So, yes plain old TX's can be shifted while moving without grinding, but there is potential for grinding. My 1710 ranges is another story, they can't be shifted on the fly. When stopped, most times they go in easily but sometimes I have to tickle the clutch before they'll go without grinding.
I don't believe I have any clutch drag that would create grinding. On these 2-stage clutches the TX clutch disengages fairly far up on the pedal travel and before the PTO clutch starts disengaging. Excessive pedal play starts affecting the PTO engagement before it affects the TX. Of course, a warped TX clutch plate could create drag irrespective of adjustment.
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| jeff r
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 428 burton. michigan
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2002-10-24 44155
Tomg,
Your 1710 is a joy to split and work on. I could teach you to do it an hour and a half without air tools. Yup I guess I'm lucky to have a brother with every tool imaginable. He used to do wrenching for a living on the BIG stuff but now is just a advanced trouble shooter called in diagnose problems and remedies when the other mechanics can't figure it out. We do this small stuff for fun on the side just to get money for toys we don't need. Needless to say, I'm just his advanced assistant and do what I'm told. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-10-25 44174
Jeff: I do have some envy for somebody with a proper place and equipment.
As you say, splitting isn't complicated but it does take a few things that most people don't have. My own limitation is that I'm unwilling to do anything major while working on dirt, which is what I've got until I build a proper equipment shed. I still have most of the hand-tools needed from my own wrenching days but I'd have to buy some jacks or hoists. An overhead hoist would be wonderful.
For anybody contemplating their own split, manuals give procedures but the process is pretty logical. Some people might try it without a manual. However, a thing that might be forgotten is that the front-half of many tractors can turn on the pivot point and fall over if the rails aren't blocked.
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| jeff r
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 428 burton. michigan
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2002-10-25 44212
Tomg,
Don't have to block the rails on a 1710, just slide apart and the tractor is supported by the front drive shaft. SO darn easy as compared to a Ford 3000. I think his new clutch was under 100 bucks. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-10-26 44224
Jeff:
It's sort of a sideline issue, but my Item 21 in my 1710 repair manual procedure for separating the engine and TX says 'Wedge wood blocks between the engine side-rails and front axle to prevent the engine from tipping.'
I suppose that some ways of using an overhead hoist would eliminate the requirement and that possibly was what was done. Of course, you've been involved in a split and I haven't. I haven't had to do a split so I'm just going from a procedure. I have had engines and TX's out of trucks and motorcycles though.
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